How To Repair The Oiler On S Homelight Electric Chainsaw
The advancement from the axe to the chainsaw might only be the greatest evolutionary leap in the history of tools. Recollect almost it. Seemingly overnight, the chore of felling a tree went from time-consuming and incredibly laborious, to amazingly quick and effortless.
Today, chainsaws are usually used past both pro arborists and DIYers to cut down and cut up trees. Simply even the largest, near powerful chainsaw won't cutting with a dull saw chain. The good news is that dissimilar most other power-cut tools, you tin can acuminate a chainsaw to like-new condition in only a few minutes.
💡Here's telltale sign that your chainsaw needs sharpening. Examine the wood being expelled by the saw. A sharp chainsaw sprays out sparse shavings. A dull saw spews out fine forest dust.
File Sharpening
Using a file to hand sharpen a dull saw concatenation might seem like a very slow way to go. But in one case yous perfect the techniques described beneath, it really goes surprisingly fast.
Start, look closely at the saw concatenation and you'll run across a series of teeth with sharpened semicircular cutting edges. The diameter of the edges varies from 1 saw to the adjacent, simply is typically 5/32 inch, 3/16 inch, or vii/32 inch. To sharpen these curved cut edges use a matching-diameter round file. Also, notice that the tops of the cut teeth are ground at alternating angles, pregnant one tooth angles to the left, the next to the right.
In between each cutting tooth is a apartment piece of metal that's shaped somewhat similar a shark'due south dorsal fin. These pieces called "rakers" are slightly shorter in height than the cut teeth. Rakers don't require sharpening; their purpose is to deed as depth gauges to command how securely the teeth cutting into the wood.
To ensure consistent, accurate results when hand filing a saw chain, it's important to mount the file into a sharpening guide. The guide serves two purposes: It provides a flat surface for resting the file on the saw chain, and it controls the depth that the file can cut. And stamped into the top surface of the guide are angled lines that correspond to the pitch—or cutting bending—of the saw chain teeth.
Chainsaw Tools You Might Need
Sharpening guides are sold at near home-improvement stores and online for about $10; a two-pack of round files volition cost another $vii or so. Or, you lot can buy a multi-piece kit for about $xx that includes everything yous need to start hand filing, including the guide and various files.
Before sharpening, you need 2 specifications: the bore of the semi-round cutting edges on the saw chain, and the pitch—or rake bending—of those cutting edges. Both pieces of information are available in the chainsaw owner's manual or past the manufacturer of the saw chain.
Select a round file that matches the diameter of the semi-circular edges on the cutting teeth. Loosen the thumbscrews on the sharpening guide and slide the circular file beneath the two metallic hold-down clamps. Tighten the screws to secure the file in the guide.
⚠️ Engage the chain brake and clamp the chainsaw's steel bar in a vise. If it's a cordless chainsaw, remove the battery pack for safety.
Adjacent, apply an enduring marker to mark the first cutting molar to exist sharpened. This will act as a visual reminder to let you know where you started sharpening.
Set up the sharpening guide on summit of the saw chain with the file resting against the ink-marked semi-circular cutting edges. Adjust the guide until the angled lines stamped onto the top of the guide are parallel with the saw's steel bar. Now, while maintaining that angle, button the file forward across the cutting tooth.
Echo 5 or six more times, using slow, steady strokes. Proceed count of how many strokes you make across the showtime tooth, and brand the same number of filing strokes across all the other teeth. When properly sharpened the entire curved cutting border of the molar should be make clean and shiny.
Later sharpening the kickoff molar, skip the next 1, and file the tooth after that. Call back, the sharpening angle on the saw teeth alternate to the left and right. So it'south best to sharpen every other tooth, then you won't have to keep changing the filing angle back and forth. Proceed in this manner, filing every other tooth, until you've worked your way dorsum to the starting point on the saw concatenation. Now, move around to the other side of the bar, and start filing the teeth that you skipped on the first go-around.
File sharpening may feel awkward at first, but you'll go comfortable afterwards awhile. And once yous've perfected this technique, you'll be able to acuminate well-nigh chainsaws in less than 15 minutes.
Portable Ability Sharpeners
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Mitt filing is perfectly fine for sharpening saw chains, simply power sharpening is quicker and much more than fun.
There are two types of portable power tools that make quick piece of work of chainsaw sharpening. The start is a rotary tool, usually called a Dremel tool, which accepts a chainsaw-sharpening accompaniment. The accessory kit ($15) includes a cylindrical grinding stone and an alignment guide that clamps onto the tool. Rotary tools are available in both corded electric and cordless versions. In that location are as well 12-volt versions that run off your auto or truck bombardment, which is useful when working out in the field.
Another portable power-tool option is an electric rotary grinder that's specifically designed to practice just ane affair: sharpen chainsaws, which it does information technology very quickly and very well. The tool comes in kit form with various-size grinding stones and a metal sharpening guide that mounts onto the nose of the tool.
The rotary-tool accompaniment and the dedicated rotary grinder both do an excellent job of sharpening saw chains. If y'all already own a rotary tool, so consider getting the sharpening accessory kit, which tin can also be used to acuminate lawnmower blades, grass shears, axes and other tools.
Otherwise, the dedicated grinder is a smart investment, particularly if y'all utilise your chainsaw a lot.
Bench-Pinnacle Sharpeners
If you apply a chainsaw all year-round or if you own more than one chainsaw, then you can save a meaning amount of time and energy by sharpening the saw chains with a bench-mounted sharpener. This style sharpener delivers most accurate, consistent results.
The tool operates a bit similar a power miter saw, just instead of a woodcutting bract, it'southward equipped with a 4½-inch diameter grinding bicycle. The bicycle tilts upwards to 35 degrees left and right to accommodate the most common saw-chain cutting angles.
Showtime by clamping or screwing the sharpener to your workbench. With the saw powered off and battery removed, remove the saw chain from the saw and set it into the sharpener'southward vice. Adjust the grinder to the proper angle, so squeeze the trigger and pull downwards on the upper handle until the spinning wheel contacts the cut tooth on the saw chain. It only takes two or 3 seconds to sharpen the tooth.
Release the clamp, reposition the saw chain and repeat. As with filing, sharpen every other tooth, then readjust the grinding angle and acuminate the remaining alternate-angle teeth. A bench-top sharpener is certainly the quickest, most accurate mode to sharpen a saw chain, only just as importantly it makes information technology nearly incommunicable to ruin a saw chain by grinding away too much material.
Regardless of which tool or technique you lot use, keep the saw chain sharp and your chain saw volition last longer, perform better, and cutting quicker and more than safely.
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Source: https://www.popularmechanics.com/home/tools/a21996/how-to-sharpen-chainsaw-tips/
Posted by: smithadlyinit.blogspot.com
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